Art reference

An Art Deco vibe reigns at Saint Laurent for fall 2022 – WWD

Anthony Vaccarello cast a spell last season with a Saint Laurent collection that draws inspiration from Paloma Picasso, whose theatrical sense of dress in the 80s is said to have inspired house founder Yves Saint Laurent and pushed his creativity beyond the codes bourgeois.

For fall, Vaccarello checked the name of Nancy Cunard, a maritime heiress and writer whose reed-thin body and stacks of ivory bangles made her a style icon in the ’20s and ’30s. her runway notes, the designer noted that she “dared to dress ahead of her time – giving a masculine wardrobe its own indelible stamp”.

In a season of strong shoulders, the house of Saint Laurent dibs, and the collection hinged on beautifully tailored wool coats that tapered past the hips or past the knee, where a silky, fluted skirt floated below . It’s a seductively romantic silhouette, and the models put their hands in their pockets and hunched their shoulders against the evening chill in the black box of a runway theatre, which lost its walls as the show began, revealing a view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower.

The combination of chunky coats and long, flowing dresses was reminiscent of Pina Bausch dancers at rest – elegant, dignified, lost in thought after a harrowing performance. Here is a more introspective Saint Laurent collection – and no less impactful for her.

Variations on a long, slender figure dominated this hushed spectacle, which Vaccarello dedicated to his father, who died suddenly just days ago. A small black card in his memory has been affixed to each carefully padded velvet seat in the vast upholstered set, embellished with mirrors and lacquer in an Art Deco style, another key reference this season, felt mainly in the clean and bold shapes neat clothes.

With several “Euphoria” cast members in attendance, as well as a number of Korean pop stars, it was business as usual outside the venues, where teenagers were swarming with iPhones and screaming as each arrived.

Despite the understated vibe, the collection was daring, unlike the full-throttle sensuality displayed in other fashion capitals, seductive with form-fitting jersey dresses with occasional flashes of sheer and faux fur coats with perhaps to be only an opium spritz carried under.

The show culminated with a trio of tuxedos, one of the founder’s most iconic styles, first introduced in 1966. They could only be described as perfect.