Art reference

Saint Laurent focuses on art history and simple silhouettes for fall 2022

Anthony Vaccarello’s Presentation at Paris Fashion Week Pays Tribute to the Founder’s Love for Art Deco

Symmetry, simplicity, geometry and a certain aerodynamic effect: these are the distinctive features of the Art Deco movement, born in the youth of Yves Saint Laurent, resurfacing in the 1960s when the designer founded his own eponymous brand. The French house recalls that a pair of vases by Jean Dunand, decorated in the iconic style, was one of Saint Laurent’s most prized possessions. Art Deco influenced the furniture of his houses and the philosophy of his creations. But the movement never quite showed up — physically, at least — in her runway collections.

So far, that is. For Fall 2022, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello paid homage to Saint Laurent’s love for Art Deco. “The reference is not literal,” reads the house’s press release, “informing the show more on the essence and outline than direct quotes.” Models walked in front of the Eiffel Tower, wearing double-breasted coats or leather trench coats over long silk or sheer dresses. Shoulders were square and pronounced, heavy earrings and metal bracelets were worn on both wrists to achieve a perfectly balanced impression. Geometric shapes – hexagons and triangles – were offset by floral accents near the reverse, and a neutral color palette created an elegant and cool look overall.

The presentation argued for the elemental: clean lines, strong tailoring and artistic roots. Saint Laurent writes: “Proving that restraint need not be joyless, it’s a poetic and quiet exhibition, shot through with bursts of determination and unapologetic verve.”